Toyotomi Exhibition in Tokyo: Brothers in Arms Second-Half Highlights and Visitor's Review
The Toyotomi Brothers exhibition in Tokyo brings together objects connected to Hideyoshi and his younger brother Hidenaga at the Edo-Tokyo Museum. I visited in both halves, on 19 September and 17 October 2026. This guide covers what is on now, the changing displays, ticket queues, the exhibition shop, a ticket discount, English support and the walk from Ryogoku Station.
- Is it worth visiting? Dates, tickets, photography
- Ticket discount with the Daitoku-ji exhibition
- First half vs second half (selected objects)
- Time needed, entry and English support
- Getting there from Ryogoku Station
- Who were the Toyotomi brothers?
- What is on now (second-half highlights)
- Objects behind Hyouge Mono and Touken Ranbu
- Drama display, shop (exhibition-only goods), themed lunch, Ieyasu statue
- First-half objects now off display
- Where to stay
- FAQ
The Toyotomi Brothers exhibition at Tokyo's Edo-Tokyo Museum brings together letters, folding screens, armor, tea utensils and swords connected to Hideyoshi and his younger brother Hidenaga. It is the Tokyo venue of the special exhibition tied to NHK's 2026 taiga drama Toyotomi Kyodai!, also presented in English as Brothers in Arms. The objects come from museums, temples and collections across Japan.
On my first visit I went in at around 10:00 on a Saturday and spent about 2 hours 20 minutes in the special exhibition alone, taking notes as I went. I went back in the second half and concentrated on the objects that had just gone on display. If you are going now, start with what is on now; objects that have gone off display are gathered later on the page. It is written for visitors to Tokyo who follow the drama, know the Sengoku (Warring States) period, or want to see famous Toyotomi-era objects in one place.
Is it worth visiting? Dates, tickets and photography
In my view, yes, if you have any interest in samurai history. Objects that normally sit in different museums across Japan are shown together, and some are real highlights: famous tea wares that still carry the names of the warlords who owned them, the sword Nansen Ichimonji in the second half, and, in the first half, a suit of armor used by Hideyoshi and his handwritten draft will (both now off display). Considering the effort of visiting each lender separately, I felt the ¥2,100 ticket was good value. The main caveat for international visitors is language: most of the object labels I saw were in Japanese (see English support below).
| Dates | Tuesday 15 September – Sunday 8 November 2026 |
|---|---|
| Venue | Edo-Tokyo Museum, 1st-floor Special Exhibition Gallery (1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, Tokyo) |
| Hours | 9:30–17:30; Saturdays until 19:30; 6 November until 20:00. Last entry 30 minutes before closing |
| Closed | Mondays (but open 21 September, 12 October and 2 November), plus 24 September, 13 October and 4 November |
| Tickets (on the day) | Adults ¥2,100; 65 and over ¥1,600; university and vocational students ¥1,300; free for high school students and younger, and for holders of Japanese disability certificates plus up to two companions |
| Combined ticket | Special exhibition + permanent exhibition: ¥2,740 for adults, sold only at the museum and on its own online ticket site — ¥160 less than buying the special exhibition (¥2,100) and the permanent exhibition (¥800 on its own) separately. The ¥2,100 ticket does not include the permanent galleries |
| Reservations | Not required, but you may have to wait to enter when it is busy. Online tickets can be bought through the official ticket page (several vendors to choose from). Same-day tickets are also sold on the Japanese booking site Asoview (PR; see the entry tips below for details) |
| Discount | Adults pay ¥2,000 (¥100 off) if you show a ticket stub or online ticket for the Tokyo National Museum's Daitoku-ji exhibition. Details below |
| Photography | Not allowed in the galleries with the historical objects on either of my visits (19 September and 17 October) |
Checked on 20 September 2026 against the official Japanese pages. The English exhibition page listed some dates differently (for example, a later closing time on 6 November), so the details above follow the museum's Japanese information. Please check the museum website before you go.
Discount tickets: the one discount open to everyone is the joint offer with the Tokyo National Museum's Daitoku-ji exhibition, which I saw on a notice at the museum on 17 October 2026. If you have already been to Daitoku-ji and kept your ticket, the adult ticket here drops from ¥2,100 to ¥2,000. Apart from that, as of 20 September 2026 I found only discounts through membership or employee-benefit schemes in Japan, such as CO-OP Deli, Benefit One and Yutori Chiyoda.
When you pay at the Edo-Tokyo Museum ticket counter, show a ticket stub or online ticket screen for "Daitoku-ji: 700 Years of Rinzai Zen" and you pay the prices below. The offer officially runs from 15 September to 8 November 2026, but since the Daitoku-ji exhibition opened on 14 October, in practice it applies from then.
| Special exhibition ticket | Adults ¥2,100 → ¥2,000; 65 and over ¥1,600 → ¥1,500; university and vocational students ¥1,300 → ¥1,200 |
|---|---|
| Combined ticket (special + permanent) | Adults ¥2,740 → ¥2,640; 65 and over ¥1,920 → ¥1,820; university and vocational students ¥1,680 → ¥1,580 |
From a notice at the museum, 17 October 2026. Cannot be combined with other discounts, does not apply to complimentary tickets, and cannot be applied to tickets already bought.

Show your "Toyotomi Brothers" ticket stub or your online ticket screen at the special-exhibition ticket counter of the Tokyo National Museum, and you can get a discount on the special exhibition "Daitoku-ji: 700 Years of Rinzai Zen" (14 October – 6 December 2026), held to mark the temple's 700th anniversary. The discount is valid from 14 October to 6 December 2026 and cannot be combined with other discounts.
| Adults | ¥2,300 → ¥2,200 (tax included) |
|---|---|
| University students | ¥1,300 → ¥1,200 (tax included) |
| High school students | ¥900 → ¥800 (tax included) |
First half vs second half: which objects are on when
The Tokyo show is split into a first half (15 September – 12 October) and a second half (14 October – 8 November), and some objects have their own display dates, including a few that change again within the second half (up to 25 October, then from 27 October). The catalogue numbers below are the museum's list numbers, not the order of the galleries. See the full object list (PDF, Japanese) for every entry, or use my work list in English, where you can filter all 130 works by half and by venue.
This table is only a selection: it lists some of the objects covered in this guide. Many more objects are shown in the first half, the second half and the whole run. For the full, up-to-date object list, open the museum's exhibition page and click "展示リスト" (object list) to download the PDF, or go directly to the object list (PDF). It is in Japanese; my searchable work list covers the same 130 works in English.
| First half only (15 Sep – 12 Oct), now ended, e.g. | No. 122 armor used by Hideyoshi; No. 230 Hideyoshi's handwritten draft will; No. 2 portrait of Hideyoshi (Zenrin-ji temple, Kyoto) |
|---|---|
| 15 Sep – 4 Oct only (ended) | No. 41 Hideyoshi's written instructions to Hidenaga (Mino-no-kami) |
| Second half only (14 Oct – 8 Nov), e.g. | No. 216 the sword Nansen Ichimonji; No. 215 sword drawings that include it; No. 200 record of a tea gathering at Arima hot spring; Nos. 4 and 6 portraits of Hidenaga (Hase-dera and Shungaku-in temples); No. 9 portrait of Hideyoshi; No. 14 portrait of Oda Nobunaga; No. 60 portrait of Tokugawa Ieyasu; No. 221 Hidenaga's prayer document; Noh costumes Nos. 165 and 167 |
| Changing within the second half | No. 95, a draft letter to Shimazu Hyogo-no-kami, 14–25 Oct, replaced by No. 96 (same title) 27 Oct – 8 Nov; No. 137, a memorandum by Yokohama Ichian, 6–25 Oct |
| Battle of Nagakute screens | No. 54 (Toyota Municipal Museum) 15 Sep – 25 Oct, replaced by No. 56 (Tokugawa Art Museum) 27 Oct – 8 Nov |
| Whole run, e.g. | No. 38 Battle of Shizugatake screens; No. 101 Jurakudai procession screens; No. 190 Araki tea bowl; No. 195 Yakushiin tea caddy; No. 204 Yabure-bukuro water jar; No. 232 the short sword Namazuo Toshiro; and more |
A selection from the object list checked on 20 September 2026 and the printed list handed out at the venue on 17 October. Display dates may change, so check the latest list before you go.
I saw both halves. The armor (No. 122) and the draft will (No. 230) went off display on 12 October. If you go now, you will see the second-half line-up, which includes the Nansen Ichimonji sword (No. 216), and a few pieces change again after 25 October.
Time needed, getting in, and English support
- Special exhibition: about 2 hours 20 minutes for me, reading closely and taking notes, including the short film in the galleries.
- Exhibition shop: allow 10–15 minutes if you like to browse; there is a lot of merchandise.
- Permanent exhibition: split into Edo and modern Tokyo zones. To see it properly I would allow another 2–3 hours. I only had time for the Edo zone.
On Saturday 19 September 2026, there was a long queue at the ticket counter, so I bought an online ticket on my phone while at the museum. When I scanned its QR code at the entrance, it showed an error and a staff member asked me to wait. I entered about 3–5 minutes later; I could not confirm what caused the error. Buying an online ticket before arriving would at least save the time needed to purchase it on site.
On my visit around 10:00 on Saturday 19 September 2026, the galleries were busy throughout. Following the route strictly from the start meant waiting in front of some cases, so it helped to look at quieter displays first, within the museum's guidance.
On my second visit, on Saturday 17 October 2026, I arrived at around 11:00. The ticket queue was long again, and from what I could see it would have taken 20–30 minutes to buy a ticket. This time I had bought an online ticket in advance and walked straight in. If you are going on a Saturday, buy ahead.

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On both Saturdays I visited (19 September and 17 October), the day-ticket counter had a long queue. Besides the official ticket page, you can also buy an online ticket on Asoview. The price is the same as at the counter, but Asoview gives points on purchases, which you can use on later bookings, so you come out slightly ahead of paying at the counter.
Asoview
[Same-day ticket] Edo-Tokyo Museum Special Exhibition “Toyotomi Brothers!” (NHK Taiga Drama)
Adult ¥2,100 / age 65+ ¥1,600 / university and vocational students ¥1,300. You can buy it without choosing a date; it is valid once, on the day you visit. Asoview points are earned on purchase. (The Asoview page is in Japanese. Your browser’s translation feature can help.)
See on AsoviewCancellations, refunds and changes for personal reasons are not accepted. Students and visitors aged 65+ need to show proof at the entrance. Point rates and conditions follow Asoview’s own rules. Please check the linked page before you buy.
English support: the entrance area had English. For the individual object labels, my impression is that some had English and others did not, but I cannot say how much of the exhibition is covered. The official audio guide is in Japanese only. If you do not read Japanese, the object notes in this guide are a good way to prepare before you go.
For Japanese speakers, the official audio guide is available as a ¥700 rental at the venue or through the "Kiku Bijutsu" app (¥800, available until 8 November 2026). It is narrated by Taiga Nakano, who plays Hidenaga in the drama. I had bought the app version at the Nagoya venue, and in my case the updated Tokyo audio was available at no extra charge.
It has 17 sections, and even in the first half I could listen to commentary on second-half objects, which helped me decide whether to return. Some of what I heard on it is woven into the object notes on this page. The app version also works outside the museum, so you can listen again at home. If you plan to come back in the second half and want the audio guide again, the app version is the one to buy.
More detail on the "Kiku Bijutsu" app itself is on the official site of its operator, Acoustiguide Japan (Japanese only). You can also listen before your visit to prepare. Check the official information for availability and conditions.
Getting there from Ryogoku Station
The museum is next to Ryogoku Station, which is served by the JR Sobu Line (station number JB21) and the Toei Oedo subway line. I left JR Ryogoku Station by the West Exit, on its north side (the side with a 7-Eleven), and walked about 300 m to the museum entrance. Large exhibition posters outside the station also point towards the museum. On the route I walked on 19 September 2026, part of the walk was uncovered, so bring an umbrella if rain is forecast.
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The route I walked from the north side of JR Ryogoku West Exit to the museum
Coming from Shinagawa or Tokyo Station, if you don't know the area
Route planners will sometimes suggest taking the Yokosuka Line from Shinagawa Station (JO17) or Tokyo Station (JO19) to Kinshicho Station (JO22), then one stop back on the Chuo-Sobu Local Line to Ryogoku (JB21), rather than changing onto the Sobu/Chuo Line. The fastest route and journey time depend on when you travel, so check a route planner on the day. The map below shows an example route from Shinagawa Station to Ryogoku Station.
| Tokyo Station | Yamanote Line JY01 (three-letter code: TYO) / Keihin-Tohoku Line JK26 / Chuo Rapid Line JC01 / Sobu Rapid Line JO19 / Tokaido Line JT01 |
|---|---|
| Shinagawa Station | Yamanote Line JY25 / Keihin-Tohoku Line JK20 / Tokaido Line JT03 / Yokosuka Line JO17 |
| Kinshicho Station | JR Chuo-Sobu Local Line JB22 / Sobu Rapid Line JO22 |
| Ryogoku Station | JR Chuo-Sobu Local Line JB21 |
Station numbers for the stations mentioned above, for reference.
Example route from Shinagawa Station to Ryogoku Station (Yokosuka Line to Kinshicho, then one stop back)
About the Edo-Tokyo Museum

The Edo-Tokyo Museum is Tokyo's city history museum, first opened in 1993. After its first major renovation in about 30 years, it reopened on 31 March 2026, and the Toyotomi Brothers show is one of its reopening special exhibitions. The exhibition is in the 1st-floor Special Exhibition Gallery, separate from the permanent galleries on the history of Edo and Tokyo. If you want to see both, buy the combined ticket.
| Address | Edo-Tokyo Museum, 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, Tokyo |
|---|---|
| JR Sobu Line, Ryogoku Sta. (JB21) | 3 min walk from the West Exit, 7 min from the East Exit (museum's estimate) |
| Toei Oedo Line, Ryogoku Sta. | 1 min walk from Exits A3/A4 (museum's estimate) |
| The way I walked | From the north side of the JR West Exit (7-Eleven side), about 300 m; partly uncovered |
| Gallery | 1st-floor Special Exhibition Gallery, separate from the permanent galleries |
Walking times are the museum's own estimates (checked 20 September 2026). The 300 m figure is my rough estimate, not a measured distance.
Who were the Toyotomi brothers?
Toyotomi Hideyoshi rose from a commoner family in Owari Province (around today's Nagoya) to become a leading general under the warlord Oda Nobunaga, and after Nobunaga's death in 1582 he brought the whole of Japan under his rule. His younger brother Hidenaga fought alongside him for years and became a major lord in his own right, ruling Yamato Province (today's Nara Prefecture) from Koriyama Castle. The exhibition's official commentary highlights his work there, such as bringing merchants to settle and reorganizing the castle town.
Hidenaga died in 1591 and Hideyoshi in 1598. The exhibition runs from a prologue through five chapters to an epilogue, following the brothers' careers and the culture of the Toyotomi regime through real objects. The Taiga drama is a work of fiction based on history, so keep the drama's version of events separate from what the objects themselves show.
The audio guide also follows the Toyotomi family after both brothers had died: the meeting between Hideyori and Ieyasu, the dispute over the inscription on the great bell of Hoko-ji temple, and the road to the Osaka sieges. In the exhibition, Chapter 5, on the decline of the Toyotomi, covers this period.
Both portraits below are AI-generated images based on material held by Zenrin-ji temple in Kyoto.
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On the left, exhibit No. 2, the portrait of Toyotomi Hideyoshi (Zenrin-ji temple, Kyoto; shown in Tokyo in the first half); on the right, an AI-generated image of Hidenaga based on material from the same temple (it does not correspond to a specific exhibit number). Both are AI-generated images, not photographs of the actual objects or accurate reconstructions. The figure in the portrait looks to be roughly 40 x 40 cm by eye.
The gallery film on Hidenaga
A film in the galleries introduces Hidenaga: his careful letters of thanks, a relationship in which his brother trusted him with decisions, his government of his domain, including his dealings with temples and shrines, and how local communities remembered him long after his death. It is in Japanese, but watching it before or after the objects helps put a face to the less famous brother.
Hidenaga in brief: what to know before you go
Hidenaga is far less known than his brother, even in Japan. These points link his career to the objects on show.
- A different name at first: he first used the name Nagahide and changed it to Hidenaga in 1584, after Nobunaga's death.
- Standing in for his brother: in 1574, while Hideyoshi was tied down facing the Ikko-ikki in Echizen, Hidenaga led troops in his place against the Ikko-ikki uprising at Nagashima in Ise.
- The negotiator: during the Komaki-Nagakute campaign he negotiated peace with Oda Nobukatsu as Hideyoshi's representative, and in the Kyushu campaign the Shimazu side came to him to make peace. When the Kyushu lord Otomo Sorin visited Osaka in 1586, he wrote that private matters went through Sen no Rikyu and official matters through Hidenaga. The audio guide adds that he handled correspondence and negotiations with other lords, and hosted visitors.
- Ruling Yamato (Nara): from Koriyama Castle he ruled Yamato, Kii and other provinces. The exhibition's official site highlights how he brought in merchants and reorganized the castle town. The hanging lantern from Hasedera temple (No. 125) was donated by his daughter in 1588.
- Working through illness: by the Odawara campaign of 1590 he was too ill to take the field, but according to the audio guide he kept working for the regime while recovering, for example passing on reports from the front to the people concerned. His prayer document of the same year (No. 221, second half) asks for his recovery.
- His death: he died at Koriyama Castle on the 22nd day of the 1st month of 1591, at 52 by the traditional count. Hideyoshi ordered a period of mourning, and large numbers of people came to the funeral.
What is on now: second-half highlights (14 October – 8 November)
These are the objects you can see until the exhibition closes on 8 November, grouped by theme. Second-half objects come from my visit on 17 October; whole-run objects such as the folding screens and the Araki and Yabure-bukuro tea wares come mostly from my first visit on 19 September. Each heading shows when the objects are on display. Photography is not allowed in the galleries, so I rely on the notes I wrote on the printed object list and, for some objects, AI-generated images. The notes include my own impressions and guesses, and the explanations are as I read them on the labels.
My own call from what I saw on 17 October 2026. Display dates follow the printed object list.
Both are second-half only. You can see the blade itself and then a set of drawings that records its temper line in detail.
The same man can look very different depending on when and for whom he was painted. They are worth comparing side by side.
On for the whole run, so you can still see them. These are the tea wares I spent longest in front of.
From 27 October it is replaced by No. 96, a letter with the same title. The Battle of Nagakute screen also switches to the Tokugawa Art Museum version (No. 56) that day.
1. Portraits: comparing the faces of Hidenaga, Hideyoshi, Nobunaga and Ieyasu (second half)
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AI illustration Left: an AI-generated image based on exhibit No. 4, the portrait of Hidenaga from Hase-dera temple, Nara. Right: one based on No. 6, from Shungaku-in temple, Nara. Both are second-half pieces. These are not photographs of the actual objects or accurate reconstructions, and details such as the faces differ from the originals.
Two portraits of Hidenaga let you compare: No. 4 from Hase-dera temple in Nara and No. 6 from Shungaku-in temple in Nara, both second-half pieces. In No. 4 even his shoes are carefully painted; in No. 6 he has no beard and looks young.
No. 14, a portrait of Oda Nobunaga that arrived for the second half, also shows him beardless, with glossy skin and a finely drawn hairline. No. 60, a portrait of Tokugawa Ieyasu, includes guardian lion-dogs (komainu), which made me wonder whether it shows him as the deity Tosho Daigongen; that is only my guess. I was surprised to learn it is in a private collection.
The audio guide points out that the clothing in these portraits, and where the sitter is seated, also signal rank. Along with the faces, look at the clothing and where each sitter is seated.
| No. 4 Portrait of Toyotomi Hidenaga | Second half; Hase-dera, Nara. The shoes are carefully painted |
|---|---|
| No. 6 Portrait of Toyotomi Hidenaga | Second half; Shungaku-in, Nara. No beard; he looks young |
| No. 9 Portrait of Toyotomi Hideyoshi | Second half; Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts. He looks young. The painting bears the words "Hokoku Daimyojin" (his deified name), and the label described it as a Kano school work |
| No. 14 Portrait of Oda Nobunaga | Second half. Beardless, with glossy skin and a finely painted hairline |
| No. 60 Portrait of Tokugawa Ieyasu | Second half; private collection. Guardian lion-dogs are painted in |
| No. 109 Portrait of Hojo Ujinao | Whole run; Soun-ji, Kanagawa. Finely detailed decoration |
| No. 145 Statue of Kuwayama Shigeharu | Second half; Richi-in, Osaka. A carefully made sculpture |
| No. 151 Portrait of Todo Takatora | Second half. The label noted that Takatora was fond of tea and Noh |
2. Letters and records: Ieyasu on the day of Nagakute, and Hidenaga's last years (second half / whole run)
No. 63, a letter from Tokugawa Ieyasu to Hiraiwa Shichinosuke and Torii Hikoemon-no-jo, is dated the 9th day of the 4th month of 1584, the day of the fighting at Nagakute in the Komaki-Nagakute campaign. The label explained that Ieyasu played up how well his side had done, to lift his allies' morale.
No. 221, a prayer document of Hashiba Hidenaga, was written in 1590 to pray for his recovery from illness. It carries a name said to be in his own hand and states that he was 51. That was the year he was too ill to join the Odawara campaign; he died in the first month of the following year. It dates from the time when he was supporting the regime while ill.
No. 64, a letter from Hideyoshi to his brother Hidenaga (Mino-no-kami), stays on for the whole run. It is dated the 18th day of the 6th month of 1584, while the Komaki-Nagakute campaign was still under way.
| No. 15 Shincho Koki (copy) | Second half. A chronicle of Nobunaga's life. I could read almost none of it; the only word I made out was the name "Nobunaga" |
|---|---|
| No. 43 Letter from Hashiba Hideyoshi to Toyama Sado-no-kami | Second half; private collection. The modern Japanese translation beside it was extremely polite in tone, and it made me wonder whether the original reads the same way |
| No. 63 Letter from Tokugawa Ieyasu | Second half; Tokugawa Art Museum. Dated the 9th day of the 4th month of 1584 |
| No. 64 Letter from Hideyoshi to Mino-no-kami (Hidenaga) | Whole run; Tanaka Honke Museum, Nagano. Dated the 18th day of the 6th month of 1584 |
| No. 70 Temple history of Sōkō-ji | Second half; Sōkō-ji, Wakayama. The label noted that Ota Castle, too, was besieged by flooding |
| No. 95 Draft letter from Fukuchi Nagamichi to Shimazu Hyogo-no-kami | 14–25 Oct; National Treasure. The text at the top and bottom is written upside down relative to each other |
| No. 221 Prayer document of Hashiba Hidenaga | Second half; Nara National Museum. A prayer for his recovery, with a name said to be in his own hand; states that he was 51 |
Building Osaka Castle: according to a label in the galleries, work on Osaka Castle began the year after the Honno-ji Incident and took 15 years.
3. Folding screens and excavated tiles: battles, castles and Jurakudai (whole run)
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The three images above are AI-generated renderings based on exhibit No. 101 (the screens of the imperial visit to Jurakudai) and No. 38 (the Battle of Shizugatake screens). They are not photographs of the actual objects or accurate reconstructions.
Folding screens (byobu) are large painted panels that fold like a room divider, and several here depict Toyotomi-era events. On No. 38, the Battle of Shizugatake screens (whole run), I noticed how the forts are drawn: the fort on Mt. Tagami, held by Hidenaga, looks small, while the fort on Shizugatake looks far grander. The size on the screen says nothing about the real forts, but it made me want to visit the sites themselves. By eye, the screen looked to be roughly 350 x 170 cm, an impressively large piece.
On No. 101, the screens of the imperial visit to the Palace and Jurakudai (whole run), look beyond the buildings at the people. One figure seems to wear something like a tiger skin at the waist, and the costume patterns are painted in fine detail. This screen is also roughly 350 x 170 cm by eye. Both screens were made in the Edo period, after the events, so they are later interpretations rather than eyewitness records.
- Gold-leaf roof tiles: tiles associated with Osaka Castle (Nos. 47–50), tiles excavated from the sites of lords' residences around Jurakudai (No. 100), and tiles from Koriyama and Osaka (Nos. 128–130). Each comes from a different site, so check the label to see how far the Toyotomi building program reached.
- Shizugatake screens: the Battle of Shizugatake (1583) was fought between Hideyoshi and Shibata Katsuie for control after Nobunaga's death. The young warriors who fought hardest on Hideyoshi's side became famous as the "Seven Spears of Shizugatake".
- Jurakudai screens: in 1588 Emperor Go-Yozei visited Hideyoshi's Jurakudai palace in Kyoto. The visit lasted five days and included a poetry gathering, a public show of Hideyoshi's power.
- Where the gold tiles come from: gold-leaf tiles have been found not only at Osaka Castle but also at Hidenaga's Koriyama Castle and elsewhere, so the tiles let you compare the brothers' castles.
- Osaka Castle plan: Hideyoshi's Osaka Castle burned in the Summer Siege of 1615. The walls and moats you see today were rebuilt by the Tokugawa, and the Toyotomi castle lies buried beneath them. The audio guide uses the plan of the Toyotomi-era castle (No. 46, whole run) to show how moats and stone walls protected it, and where Hideyoshi's family lived in relation to his retainers' residences.
- Battle of Nagakute screens: No. 54 (Toyota Municipal Museum) is shown 15 Sep – 25 Oct and No. 56 (Tokugawa Art Museum) 27 Oct – 8 Nov, on a different schedule from the main first and second halves.
To walk the places on the screens, see my guides to the Tagami fort site, held by Hidenaga; Shizugatake, the actual battlefield; the site of Jurakudai in Kyoto, seen in the procession screens; Hidenaga's Yamato-Koriyama; and the Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum at Osaka Castle, where you can see Toyotomi-era walls below ground.
To see more excavated gold-leaf tiles in person, my guide to the Kyoto Municipal Archaeological Museum covers its exhibits on Hideyoshi's reconstruction of Kyoto, including images of the gold-leaf and decorative tiles excavated from Jurakudai and Fushimi Castle.
4. Armor, Noh costumes and furnishings: a well-kept haramaki and the Toyotomi crest (second half)
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AI illustration Left: an AI-generated image based on exhibit No. 112, a haramaki armor with multicolored lacing. Right: one based on No. 111, a black-lacquered iron helmet of the akoda shape. Both are second-half pieces. These are not photographs of the actual objects or accurate reconstructions.
No. 112, a haramaki armor with multicolored lacing from the Hayashibara Museum of Art in Okayama (second half), is in good condition, and you can clearly see how widely it opens at the back. Two Noh costumes are second-half pieces: the green-ground No. 165 and the white-ground No. 167. No. 167 seemed to have a silk-like sheen, though that is only how it looked to me; I did not confirm the material.
Furnishings from the Kinoshita family collection in Okayama are also shown in the second half. No. 183, a stand that the label said held hairdressing utensils, carries the Toyotomi crest; No. 182, a foot-washing tub, has no crest.
The audio guide also explains that, for armor handed down in the Hojo family, the materials and workmanship tell you about the rank of the man who wore it. Armor was practical equipment, but it also displayed a family's standing.
The helmet's long Japanese name describes its shape. Akoda-nari means the bowl swells out like an akoda gourd; "fifty-eight plates" means the bowl is built from 58 iron plates; and so-fukurin means every ridge is edged with metal. It belongs to the Hayashibara Museum of Art in Okayama and is a second-half piece.
Noh costumes Nos. 165 and 167
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AI illustration Left: an AI-generated image based on exhibit No. 165, a green-ground karaori robe. Right: one based on No. 167, a white-ground nuihaku robe. Both are second-half pieces. No. 165 is made in the katami-gawari style, with different patterns on the left and right halves. These are not photographs of the actual objects or accurate reconstructions.
| No. 111 Black-lacquered iron helmet, akoda shape, 58 plates | Second half; Okayama Prefecture Important Cultural Property; Hayashibara Museum of Art, Okayama |
|---|---|
| No. 112 Haramaki armor with multicolored lacing | Second half; Hayashibara Museum of Art, Okayama. Well preserved; wide opening at the back |
| No. 165 Noh costume (karaori) | Second half; Tokyo National Museum. Green ground |
| No. 167 Noh costume (nuihaku) | Second half; Important Cultural Property; Tokyo National Museum. White ground |
| No. 182 Foot-washing tub | Second half; Kinoshita family collection. No crest |
| No. 183 Stand for hairdressing utensils | Second half; Kinoshita family collection. Bears the Toyotomi crest |
5. Tea utensils: Araki, Yabure-bukuro and Yakushiin (whole run)
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On the left, exhibit No. 190, the tea bowl named Araki; on the right, exhibit No. 204, the water jar named Yabure-bukuro. Both are AI-generated images, not photographs of the actual objects or accurate reconstructions.
In the world of the tea ceremony, prized utensils were given names and passed between warlords like treasures. The object I stood in front of longest was No. 190, the blue-and-white tea bowl named "Araki" (Tokugawa Art Museum, Nagoya; whole run). It was made in Ming-dynasty China in the 16th century. According to the museum, it is said to have belonged to the warlord Araki Murashige and later passed to Tokugawa Ieyasu and the Owari Tokugawa family. By eye, it measured roughly 18 x 8 cm, about the size of an ordinary tea bowl.
Look inside as well as outside. Beyond the band at the top, the painting below and the crackle-like pattern, you can see lines inside the bowl and a painting on the inside base. Today we can pick up a bowl like this almost anywhere, and standing there I found myself imagining how much people of the time treasured this one.
A mizusashi is the jar that holds fresh water during a tea ceremony. This one, in Iga ware and owned by the Gotoh Museum in Tokyo, stands 21.4 cm tall with a body 23.7 cm across. The museum explains that its thick green glaze formed from ash melting in the kiln, that the back fired to a deep red, and that the base slumped into the kiln stand during firing. The tea master Furuta Oribe is said to have written that nothing like it would ever appear again. The name means "torn bag". In person it looked closer to 25 x 30 cm by eye, larger than I had pictured.
In person, the uneven lower half, the torn-looking shapes, the small handles and the horizontal lines stand out. Walk slowly around the case instead of viewing it only from the front: its shape changes a great deal with the angle.
Also worth finding- No. 195, the tea caddy "Yakushiin" (Kosetsu Museum of Art, whole run): said to be the only tea utensil known for certain to have belonged to Hidenaga. He used it at a tea gathering in the 1st month of 1587, where he made the tea himself. It is a direct link to the drama's main character.
- Sen no Rikyu and Hidenaga: as Otomo Sorin's comment shows, the two acted as go-betweens for the regime. Rikyu was ordered to commit ritual suicide the month after Hidenaga died.
- No. 185, the tea-leaf jar "Shoka" (Important Cultural Property, Tokugawa Art Museum, whole run): a large Chinese jar that reflects the tea culture of the ruling elite.
- Noh costumes: Nos. 164 and 169 in the first half, Nos. 165 and 167 in the second.
- Tea records: No. 203, a tea manual associated with Furuta Oribe, in the first half; No. 200, a record of a tea gathering at Arima hot spring, in the second.
6. Tea and swords: a tea record attributed to Rikyu, and Nansen Ichimonji (second half)

No. 216, the sword Nansen Ichimonji, looked clear and unclouded along the whole blade. According to the audio guide, it passed from the Ashikaga shoguns to the Toyotomi, and Hideyori later presented it to Ieyasu. The second half also brings No. 215, a copy of the Umetada Jusai sword drawings, where even the patterns of the temper lines are drawn in detail, and Nansen Ichimonji is among the swords recorded.
For tea, No. 200 is a second-half piece: a record of a tea gathering held in 1590 at Amida-ji temple in Arima, traditionally attributed to Sen no Rikyu. No. 207, a document associated with Kobori Enshu, lists the names and features of 47 tea utensils.
| No. 200 Record of the tea gathering at Arima | Second half; Mitsui Memorial Museum, Tokyo. A tea gathering at Amida-ji in Arima; attributed to Rikyu |
|---|---|
| No. 204 Iga water jar "Yabure-bukuro" | Whole run; Important Cultural Property. Looking again, I noticed its glossy surface |
| No. 207 Kobori Enshu's list of tea caddies | Second half; Tokugawa Art Museum. Names and features of 47 tea utensils |
| No. 215 Sword drawings (Umetada Jusai version), copy | Second half; private collection. Temper patterns drawn in detail; includes Nansen Ichimonji |
| No. 216 Sword, unsigned, Ichimonji school, "Nansen Ichimonji" | Second half; Important Cultural Property; Tokugawa Art Museum. The blade looked unclouded |
7. The epilogue statue of Hidenaga: meeting it again after Tsubosaka-dera in Nara (whole run)

The last object in the exhibition, in the epilogue, is No. 238, a statue of Toyotomi Hidenaga from Tsubosaka-dera temple in Nara, made in 1630 and on show for the whole run. I had seen and photographed this statue on an earlier visit to Tsubosaka-dera in Nara. Meeting it again in a display case, rather than seated between paulownia-crest banners in a temple, gave it a rather different feel.
For the places Hidenaga governed in Yamato, see my Yamato Koriyama guide.
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See the real objects behind Hyouge Mono and Touken Ranbu
If you know the Sengoku tea world from the manga and anime Hyouge Mono, whose hero is Furuta Oribe, two pieces here are worth seeing in person: "Araki" (No. 190), the tea bowl said to have belonged to Araki Murashige, and "Yabure-bukuro" (No. 204), the water jar Oribe is said to have praised so highly. The story's version and the objects' documented history are different things, so read the museum labels alongside what you remember from the series. Both are on show for the whole run.
For Touken Ranbu fans, two real swords that inspired sword characters in the game are on show. One is second-half only, so check the dates. The 24 works tied to Touken Ranbu, Hyouge Mono and the drama are listed together under the media filter of my work list.
| No. 232 Namazuo Toshiro | Whole run; Tokugawa Art Museum. A short sword (wakizashi) remade from a polearm blade, named for its resemblance to a catfish tail. The museum describes it as a famous Toyotomi sword passed from Hideyoshi to his son Hideyori, damaged by fire when Osaka Castle fell, and re-tempered for Tokugawa Ieyasu by the swordsmith Echizen Yasutsugu. The blade looked to be roughly 60 cm by eye. |
|---|---|
| No. 216 Nansen Ichimonji | Second half only (14 Oct – 8 Nov); Important Cultural Property; Tokugawa Art Museum. An unsigned Kamakura-period sword. According to the audio guide, it passed from the Ashikaga shoguns to the Toyotomi, and Hideyori later gave it to Ieyasu. When I saw it on 17 October, the blade looked clear and unclouded. The second half also includes No. 215, sword drawings that record it. |
The "thousand gourds" standard (No. 44, whole run): Hideyoshi's battle standard was a cluster of golden gourds, and tradition says he added a gourd after each victory. The example on show dates from the Edo period.
More to enjoy: drama display, shop, themed lunch and the Ieyasu statue
You cannot photograph the historical objects, but the museum also has a Taiga drama display with photo spots, an exhibition shop and a themed lunch, all worth fitting in after the galleries.
Taiga drama production display and photo spots

In the corridors you will find a large panel with the brothers' portraits and life-size cut-outs of the drama's main characters, set up for souvenir photos.
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A display in the museum shows how the drama's settings were made, combining real sets with CG, VFX and virtual production, explained on panels and a large screen.
Photos allowed here: the recreated interior of Nagahama Castle

Inside the museum is a full-scale recreation of the interior of Nagahama Castle, the castle Hideyoshi held as his first as a castle-owning lord, combined with a large video screen. Photography is not allowed in the galleries with the historical objects, but it is allowed in this area. It is a good spot for a souvenir photo.
Exhibition shop: catalogue and Toyotomi goods

The exhibition shop sells the catalogue, books on the Toyotomi regime and castles, stationery, textiles, tableware and boxed sweets. It sits right at the exit of the exhibition, so it's an easy stop on your way out.
Items with a red-framed price card are originals made for this exhibition, and the sign in the shop says they are sold only here. The examples it listed included A4 clear folders, postcards, stickers, acrylic magnets, a folding ruler, T-shirts, tenugui cloths, bookmarks, a stainless steel flask, a tote bag by the Kyoto canvas maker Ichizawa Shinzaburo and a neck pillow. I also saw textiles printed with the sword Nansen Ichimonji, logo tea cups, and a set of a gourd-shaped sake flask with two cups.
The postcard rack had labels for "Tokyo", "Osaka", "Nagoya" and "all three venues", so you can compare the designs made for each venue. On 17 October, postcards were ¥200 each and bookmarks ¥400. Prices and stock may change.
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Tap to enlarge. Items and prices as of the day I visited
Themed lunch: the "Brothers' Set" at Wa Dining Koyomi

The museum's Japanese restaurant, Wa Dining Koyomi, serves an exhibition tie-in: a two-part steamed rice set called Nishoku Seiro-meshi Kyodai Gozen ("two-color steamed rice Brothers' Set"). In one steaming basket, shrimp tempura, shredded egg and warabi-mochi stand for the older brother Hideyoshi, while teriyaki chicken, chestnut and sweet potato, and persimmon namasu stand for Hidenaga. On the day I ate it, it cost ¥2,800 and was advertised as limited to 20 servings. The restaurant's official page is Wa Dining Koyomi.
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The gold flecks are not gold at all: they are kinako (roasted soybean flour), and the mochi itself is matcha warabi-mochi. The bitterness of the matcha and the mild, not-too-sweet flavor of the kinako work well together. The rice basket also includes chestnut and sweet potato, and their natural sweetness makes a nice contrast with the saltiness of the shrimp tempura and teriyaki chicken.
The table card said the set is planned from 15 September to 8 November, and that the fried vegetables may change depending on supply. Prices and availability can change, so check at the restaurant.
Queues, and finding the restaurantI arrived at around 14:00 and found a queue already forming; I was seated at 14:30, and staff told me only 2 servings of this limited set remained. If you want to try it, going early is a good idea. The restaurant itself is a little hard to find: it sits toward the back of the museum, on the side away from the railway tracks. The map below shows its location.
The location of Wa Dining Koyomi
The Tokugawa Ieyasu statue north of the museum

In the green space on the north side of the museum stands a statue of Tokugawa Ieyasu dressed for falconry, wearing a hat and holding a hawk on his left hand. Ieyasu, one of the addressees of Hideyoshi's draft will, went on to found the shogunate in Edo, today's Tokyo, so you may want to stop by on your way out.
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The plaque on the base explains that the statue was erected by the Edo Shobo Kinenkai, a society preserving the traditions of Edo's firefighters, and describes its design. The figure stands on a tall stone pillar supported by a large turtle.
To explore the castle Ieyasu built, see my Edo Castle (Imperial Palace) guide.
First-half objects now off display: notes from 19 September
The objects below were shown only in the first half (15 September – 12 October) and are no longer on display. I have kept my notes from 19 September as a record. For what you can see now, go to what is on now.
1. Hideyoshi's draft will and his instructions to Hidenaga (first half, now ended)

A first-half highlight (off display since 12 October) was No. 230, Toyotomi Hideyoshi's handwritten draft will addressed to Tokugawa Ieyasu and others, an Important Cultural Property owned by the Mori Museum in Yamaguchi. It is dated the 5th day of the 8th month of 1598, shortly before Hideyoshi's death, and it is a draft rather than the final document. In person, what struck me first was how much of it is written in hiragana, the simpler phonetic script, rather than in dense Chinese characters. It left me with the sense of a man leaning on the people he was entrusting with his legacy. By eye, the document itself looked to be roughly 60 x 40 cm.
For the relationship between the brothers, look for two documents addressed to Hidenaga, who held the title Mino-no-kami: No. 41, written instructions (shown until 4 October), and No. 64, a letter (on for the whole run).
- The script of the draft will: notice the amount of hiragana, and keep in mind that this is a draft (案) rather than the final document that would have been sent.
- Two documents to Hidenaga: No. 41 and No. 64 are different kinds of document, so you can compare how Hideyoshi addressed his brother.
- Portrait: in the first half, the portrait of Hideyoshi from Zenrin-ji temple in Kyoto (No. 2) was also on show.
- Date of No. 64: the letter is dated the 18th day of the 6th month of 1584, while the Komaki-Nagakute campaign was still under way.
| No. 230 draft will | First half (15 Sep – 12 Oct); Important Cultural Property; Mori Museum |
|---|---|
| No. 41 instructions | 15 Sep – 4 Oct; Nagahama Castle Historical Museum |
| No. 64 letter | Whole run; Tanaka Honke Museum |
2. Armor: Hideyoshi's armor, shown only in Tokyo (first half, now ended)
No. 122 is a suit of armor laced with white silk and covered in silver-colored scales, used by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and now an Important Cultural Property in the Sendai City Museum. The exhibition materials describe it as a gift from Hideyoshi to the northern lord Date Masamune, and say that on this touring exhibition it is shown only at the Tokyo venue. It was on display in the first half only and went off display on 12 October.
Take the time to look from top to bottom rather than just at the overall effect. What stayed with me were the fabric at the feet, a part of the helmet that looks like animal hair, and a golden fan-shaped ornament.
- Lavish finish: small scales covered in silver leaf are laced with white silk, and the metal fittings carry chrysanthemum and paulownia crests in gold lacquer.
- Bear-hair helmet: the part I thought looked like animal hair is bear hair, a bold Momoyama-period touch.
- The golden fans: the gold fan-shaped ornaments front and back stand out in person.
- Background: tradition says Hideyoshi gave it to Date Masamune in 1590, the year he defeated the Hojo at Odawara.
Follow the objects to historic sites and earlier venues
My Osaka and Nagoya articles are records of those earlier venues of this touring exhibition. Objects and photography rules differed between venues, so use this page for the Tokyo show. If you saw the Nagoya or Osaka leg, the venue filter in my work list shows what is different in Tokyo.
Where to stay before or after the exhibition
PRThis section contains affiliate links to Agoda. If you book through them, this site earns a commission. I choose hotels for their location and how easy they are to travel from.
The exhibition runs until Sunday 8 November. On Saturdays it stays open until 19:30, which leaves room for an evening visit. Choose a hotel to suit what you are doing before and after. Here are three areas for three kinds of trip. Prices vary widely by date and room type, so I have not compared them.
CLOSE TO THE MUSEUM
Ryogoku area
About 300 m from the West Exit of JR Ryogoku Station
Good if you want to enter when the doors open at 9:30, or get back to your hotel soon after the Saturday evening hours (until 19:30).
Ryogoku Station, on the JR Sobu Line and the Toei Oedo Line, is the nearest station. A hotel close to the station shortens the trip further.
Browse Ryogoku hotels on AgodaEASY TO MOVE ON
Tokyo Station area
By Sobu rapid and local trains to Ryogoku
Good if you are taking the Shinkansen on to your next stop after the exhibition. Tokyo Station is the starting point for Shinkansen lines in all directions, and the area has many upscale hotels.
You change trains at Kinshicho to reach Ryogoku. The route is explained in the section for visitors coming from Shinagawa and Tokyo Station.
Browse Tokyo Station hotels on AgodaA SPECIAL STAY
The Tokyo Station Hotel
Inside the Marunouchi station building
Opened in 1915 inside the Marunouchi building of Tokyo Station. The building itself is worth seeing. Best for travelers who want to make the stay part of the trip.
To keep costs down, you can also browse the same Tokyo Station area through 02.
Check rates on AgodaThe links open with Agoda’s default dates and guest count. Check the dates, price, and cancellation terms on the booking page before you reserve.
Frequently asked questions
From 15 September to 8 November 2026 in the 1st-floor Special Exhibition Gallery of the Edo-Tokyo Museum, next to Ryogoku Station. It is closed on Mondays (except 21 September, 12 October and 2 November) and on 24 September, 13 October and 4 November.
I spent about 2 hours 20 minutes in the special exhibition, reading closely and taking notes. Add 10–15 minutes for the shop, and another 2–3 hours if you also want to see the permanent exhibition properly.
The entrance area had English. For individual objects, my impression was that some labels had English and some did not, but I cannot say how many. The official audio guide is Japanese only, so it helps to read up on the key objects before you go.
On both of my visits (19 September and 17 October 2026), photography was not allowed in the galleries with the historical objects. The Taiga drama display, the photo spots and the recreated Nagahama Castle interior were fine for souvenir photos.
No reservation is needed. On both of my Saturday visits, though, the ticket counter queue was long. On 17 October it looked like a 20–30 minute wait to buy a ticket, while I walked straight in with an online ticket bought in advance. Buying before you arrive is the easier option.
No. The ¥2,100 adult ticket covers the special exhibition only. For both, buy the combined special + permanent exhibition ticket (¥2,740 for adults), sold at the museum and on its own online ticket site.
When I went at around 10:00 on Saturday 19 September 2026, there was a long queue at the ticket counter and the galleries were busy, with waits in front of some cases near the start. At around 11:00 on Saturday 17 October the ticket queue was long again, with an estimated 20–30 minute wait. Crowds vary by day and time, so buy an online ticket before you arrive and look at the quieter displays first.
Yes. Show a ticket stub or online ticket for the Tokyo National Museum's Daitoku-ji exhibition at the Edo-Tokyo Museum ticket counter and the adult special exhibition ticket drops from ¥2,100 to ¥2,000, or the combined ticket from ¥2,740 to ¥2,640 (checked on a notice at the museum on 17 October 2026; cannot be combined with other discounts). There are also discounts through some membership and employee-benefit schemes in Japan.
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