In 2024, the Emmy Award-winning drama SHŌGUN captivated audiences worldwide.
The series tells the story of a powerful shōgun inspired by Tokugawa Ieyasu and an English navigator, John Blackthorne, who serves him.
What many may not realize is that Blackthorne’s character is based on a real historical figure: William Adams, known in Japan as Miura Anjin.
The series portrays how he came to be called Anjin in Japan, a storyline rooted in historical fact.
The term Anjin, meaning “pilot” or “navigator,” was bestowed upon Adams in recognition of his expertise in shipbuilding and maritime navigation.
Under Ieyasu’s patronage, he constructed Japan’s first Western-style sailing ship, significantly influencing the shogunate’s naval strategy and advancing Japanese shipbuilding technology.
This name is even used in the drama, enhancing the authenticity of the story.
At the turn of the 16th century, during the Age of Exploration, an Englishman found himself shipwrecked in Japan after a perilous journey across the seas.
Following the Battle of Sekigahara, he earned Ieyasu’s trust and was granted a fief of 250 koku in present-day Hemmi (Hemi), Yokosuka.
As a skilled navigator and shipbuilder, he played a crucial role as a diplomatic advisor to the Tokugawa shogunate.
Yet, despite his influence and achievements, he was never able to return to his homeland. Instead, Japan became his final resting place.
A Journey Through Yokosuka: Following Anjin’s Footsteps
Yokosuka is home to numerous historical sites preserving the legacy of Miura Anjin.
This journey takes us through places where history comes alive—Edo-period highways, Anjin’s final resting place, and a shrine believed to have been founded by his descendants.
Following the footsteps of the “blue-eyed samurai,” we step back 400 years into a time of transformation and diplomacy.
From Anjinzuka Station to the Grave of Anjin and His Wife
Stepping off the Keikyū Line at Anjinzuka Station, I found myself in a quiet residential neighborhood.
The station’s very name—Anjinzuka (“Anjin’s Mound”)—stands as a testament to the deep historical ties between this land and the man who once walked it.
After a short walk, I reached a steep slope leading up to the hill where the graves of Anjin and his wife rest.
The incline was challenging, leaving me slightly out of breath, yet this very path served as an important route to the historical sites linked to Anjin’s legacy.
Passing through the residential area, I soon arrived at a park entrance, where an aged stone staircase, worn by time, appeared before me.
The Grave of Miura Anjin and His Wife—A View That Endures
At the top of the stone staircase stood the grave of Miura Anjin and his wife.
The weathered tombstones, bearing the passage of over 400 years, quietly mark the place where he rests to this day.
In 1600, Miura Anjin arrived in Japan aboard the Liefde, a Dutch ship that drifted ashore in Bungo (present-day Usuki, Oita Prefecture) after a treacherous voyage.
Tokugawa Ieyasu recognized his vast knowledge and appointed him as a diplomatic advisor.
Beyond diplomacy, Anjin’s expertise in shipbuilding profoundly shaped the shogunate’s maritime policies and introduced innovations to Japan’s shipbuilding industry.
A Panoramic View from the Hilltop
Near the grave, a scenic viewpoint offered a breathtaking vista. Below, the cityscape of Yokosuka stretched out, and beyond it, the shimmering waters of Tokyo Bay unfolded.
The sea breeze was refreshing, and as I gazed upon the view Anjin himself might have once seen, I reflected on his extraordinary life.
Perhaps, centuries ago, the very ships he built set sail from this spot, bound for Edo.
Descending Towards Kashima Shrine
Following a gentle downhill path, I made my way toward the next destination.
Along the route, an old stone marker stood as a silent testament to travelers who had once passed this way.
This weathered signpost confirmed that the road had once been a key highway connecting Edo to Uraga.
Before long, I arrived at Kashima Shrine, dedicated to Takemikazuchi-no-Mikoto, a revered deity and protector of the local community.
According to tradition, the shrine was founded by a descendant of Miura Anjin.
After being granted land in Hemmi by Ieyasu, his lineage took root in this region, and one of his descendants is believed to have established the shrine.
Standing there, I felt the deep passage of time—Anjin’s story was no longer just a historical record but a living heritage interwoven into Japan’s cultural fabric.
At Kashima Shrine, I received a goshuin (temple or shrine seal) bearing Anjin’s name—a treasured memento for any history enthusiast.
Jōdoji—Anjin’s Family Temple
A short walk from the shrine led me to Jōdoji Temple, the family temple of Miura Anjin.
The temple’s serene atmosphere carried the weight of history, its quiet grounds evoking a sense of timeless reverence.
Receiving a goshuin here felt like a symbolic acknowledgment of Anjin’s enduring presence in this land.
In 1620, Miura Anjin passed away in Hirado, yet he is said to have left a final wish:
“Bury me in a place where I can see Edo.”
To honor his request, a memorial tower was built in Hemmi, marking the land where he had left his greatest impact.
Although his grave fell into neglect over the centuries, renewed interest emerged in 1872 when a British merchant residing in Yokohama wrote about it in a newspaper.
Later, with contributions from Japanese and British supporters, the Anjinzuka Monument was erected in 1918, ensuring that his memory would endure.
A Leisurely Walk to Yokosuka Station
On the way back, I strolled toward Yokosuka Station, occasionally pausing to admire the old road markers that still stand along the path.
Amid the modern cityscape, remnants of the Edo period quietly linger, offering a poignant reminder of the past that continues to echo through time.
The Journey’s End
Following Miura Anjin’s footsteps was more than a historical excursion—it was a glimpse into the life of a man who bridged two worlds.
Though he never returned to England, Japan became his new homeland, a place where his name remains woven into the landscapes of Yokosuka.
For history lovers and those seeking a quiet, reflective stroll, Yokosuka’s Anjin Trail offers an unforgettable journey—one that lingers long after the final step.
📍 Want to Visit These Historic Sites Yourself?
If this travel journal has inspired you to walk in Miura Anjin’s footsteps, check out our detailed walking guide, complete with maps, historical insights, and practical tips:
🔗 Explore Miura Anjin’s Legacy in Yokosuka – A Step-by-Step Walking Guide
Follow the exact route and immerse yourself in history!
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