I saw a news report about a special exhibition at a museum in Nara, where the legendary fragrant wood “Ranjatai” is being unveiled for the first time in over a decade.
It’s a mythical piece of agarwood that every Japanese history enthusiast has heard of—famous for the story of Oda Nobunaga, who once demanded that the sealed Ranjatai be cut open so he could possess a piece of it.
I’d always dreamed of seeing the real thing in person, but the Nara exhibition was set to end this weekend in November 2025. When I learned that no one knows when it will next be displayed, I couldn’t help but feel disappointed.
Then, I came across another report about “Shōsōin THE SHOW” at the Ueno Royal Museum in Tokyo, where a life-sized replica of Ranjatai was on display—along with a booth that lets visitors experience its recreated fragrance. I knew I had to go.
To the Ueno Royal Museum — A Place Where People and Culture Meet
I arrived around noon on Saturday, and Ueno was buzzing with tourists.
The area is a cultural hub filled with museums, galleries, and even a zoo. For history lovers, landmarks like Kan’eiji Temple and Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine make it a fascinating neighborhood to explore on foot.
After weaving through the crowd, I finally reached the Ueno Royal Museum.
A massive sign for “Shōsōin THE SHOW” stood proudly at the entrance.
After waiting in line for about ten minutes, I bought my ticket and entered—only to notice a small sign at the counter that read “Ranjatai Scent Card: Sold Out.”
Apparently, the museum had been selling special scent cards infused with the fragrance of Ranjatai. Originally priced at 880 yen, they were now being resold online for around 6,000 yen.
The craze alone spoke volumes about how this ancient piece of agarwood continues to fascinate people to this day.
What Is the Shōsōin? — A Story of Faith and Devotion
The exhibition began with an introduction to the origins of the Shōsōin itself.
Located within the grounds of Tōdaiji Temple in Nara, the Shōsōin is an ancient treasure repository that houses artifacts connected to Emperor Shōmu and Empress Kōmyō.
Roughly 1,300 years ago, amid a series of natural disasters and unrest, the emperor and empress sought peace through faith. The treasures preserved there—alongside the Great Buddha—are lasting testaments to their prayers for harmony and compassion.
The exhibit featured replicas and immersive visual displays that conveyed the refined aesthetic and spiritual depth of Japan’s ancient people.
The Ranjatai Section — Encountering a Legendary Fragrant Wood
In the latter half of the exhibition, I finally reached the highlight—the Ranjatai section.
At the center of the room stood a full-scale model of the enormous agarwood, measuring 156 cm long and weighing 11.6 kg.
Ranjatai is a piece of aromatic wood formed over centuries from a tree in the Daphne family. Chemical analysis shows it closely resembles agarwood found in the mountainous regions between Vietnam and Laos.
Throughout history, records show that Ashikaga Yoshimasa, Oda Nobunaga, and Emperor Meiji each took a portion from it—making Ranjatai a living symbol of Japan’s historical continuum.
Experiencing the Fragrance — A Scent Beyond Time
Along the wall, there was a booth where visitors could experience the recreated scent of Ranjatai.
Developed using advanced technology by the Shōsōin Office in collaboration with Takasago International Corporation, it scientifically reproduces the aroma that would have filled the air when the wood was burned centuries ago.
When I inhaled, I was struck by a sense of calm familiarity.
The fragrance was gentle, reminiscent of temple incense—subtle yet deeply soothing. It wasn’t overpowering, but it lingered in a way that felt timeless, as if whispering the prayers and emotions of those who once stood before it.
The Scent That Carries Memory, Prayer, and Time
Surrounded by the fragrance of Ranjatai, I suddenly realized I was sharing the same scent that people from over a thousand years ago once experienced.
In that moment, the exhibition’s theme—“Feel it. The miracle that exists here, now.”—resonated deeply within me.
Even as physical objects decay, the spirit, the fragrance, and the devotion of those who preserve them endure. When I stepped out of the Ueno Royal Museum, the faint lingering scent in the city air seemed to whisper, “Until we meet again.”
Dreaming of the day I might encounter the real Ranjatai, I carried with me the memory of its scent and story—an undeniable “miracle of the present moment” etched into my heart.
Conclusion: A Rare Chance to Experience the Fragrance of the Shōsōin
“Shōsōin THE SHOW” was more than an exhibition—it was an immersive experience that allowed visitors to feel the essence of Japan with all five senses.
From the fragrance of Ranjatai to the quiet devotion of Empress Kōmyō, the exhibition invited reflection on beauty that transcends time.
Even if you’re not a history expert, this is the kind of exhibition that gently stills the mind and draws you into the distant past.
Though this particular run has now ended, if you ever get the chance, I wholeheartedly recommend experiencing the miracle of the Shōsōin for yourself.
🕊 Exhibition Information
- Exhibition Title: Shōsōin THE SHOW
- Dates: September 20 (Sat) – November 9 (Sun), 2025
- Venue: Ueno Royal Museum (Taito, Tokyo)
- Official Website: Ueno Royal Museum
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